Why soy milk must be cooked, and the machines that do it for you

Raw soy milk tastes of bean and carries trypsin inhibitors; cooking fixes both. What a soy program on a heated maker actually does, how to cook stove-top soy milk from a cold machine or a blender, and how to handle the foam.

Published

A glass of soy milk beside a bowl of dried soybeans

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Almond milk is a cold drink the moment it is made. Soy milk is a raw ingredient until it has been boiled. If you plan to make soy, this changes which machine you buy.

What cooking does

Raw soybeans contain trypsin inhibitors, proteins that interfere with digestion, and lipoxygenase, the enzyme behind the “beany” taste. Both are destroyed by heat. Commercial soy milk is cooked; home soy milk has to be too: brought to a full boil and held at a simmer for several minutes, longer than the first boil. Undercooked soy milk is unpleasant and can upset the stomach. There is no cold-process soy milk.

What a soy program does

A heated maker’s soy program grinds the beans, heats the slurry to a boil while the blade runs, holds it there, and shuts off. The grinding and the cooking happen in the same jug, and the foam that makes stove-top soy milk a boil-over hazard is controlled by the pauses in the program. Then the milk is strained (some machines have a filter in the jug; others strain as you pour) and it is ready. That is the whole reason this class of machine exists, and Joyoung, the brand that built the category, designed its programs around soy first.

Joyoung DJ13U-G91 Soymilk Maker

Heated soy milk maker, 1.3 L, no filter

Joyoung DJ13U-G91 Soymilk Maker

Joyoung DJ13U-G91 Automatic Soy Milk Maker, 900 to 1300 ml

Joyoung built the soy milk machine category in China and this is its US-voltage 1.3 L model: ultra-fine grinding with no filter to wash, a soy program that grinds and boils in one cycle, presets for time and temperature, and a warming function. Soy first, then grains and nut milks.

Batch
900 to 1300 ml (listing)
Programs
Soy milk, grains, nut milks; preset time and temperature; warming function (listing)
Heats
Yes: grinds and boils
Touches the milk
Stainless (listing; sibling models list 304)
Power
120 V, 1100 W (listing)
Straining
No filter: ultra-fine grinding (listing)
Warranty
1-year limited (listing)

Suits: Anyone whose milk is soy, who wants it cooked properly with the least fuss, and who may go on to tofu.

Weigh: Joyoung has no working US website; model names churn (G91, P10, D988SG) and the listing is the only identifier, so match the model before buying. Specs are from listings. No filter means fine sediment in the glass; strain if you mind.

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Heated multi-cooker, 51 oz, ten programs

Kidisle 10-in-1 Nut Milk Maker, 51 oz

Kidisle 10-in-1 Nut Milk Maker Machine & Soup Maker, 51 oz

The big pot: 1.5 L a cycle, ten programs that add soup and porridge to the milks, a 24-hour delay start and an 8-hour keep-warm, and an auto clean. Same stainless jug and strainer-plus-bag arrangement as the 32 oz, scaled up for a household that makes soy milk by the pitcher or wants tofu.

Batch
51 oz / 1.5 L (listing)
Programs
10 incl. soy, nut and oat milk, soup, porridge, boil water, auto clean; 24 h delay; 8 h keep warm (listing)
Heats
Yes
Touches the milk
Stainless jug (listing)
Power
800 W, 120 V (listing)
In the box
Fine mesh strainer and nut milk bag (listing)
Size
8.3 × 6.8 × 12.6 in (listing)
Warranty
2-year limited (listing)

Suits: Soy milk for several people a day, hot soup and congee from the same machine, and a counter that can give up the space.

Weigh: Listing-only specs, no maker page, and the model is new enough that only the Amazon listing describes it. Heavy to rinse by hand when full. Two-year limited warranty per the listing.

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Soy on a cold machine or a blender

A no-strain machine or a blender gives you raw soy milk. Pour it into a tall pot (it foams to twice its height), bring it to a boil, stirring, skim the foam, then simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Strain again if you want it smooth. It works; it is a second job with a pot to wash, and if soy is the milk you drink daily, the heated maker earns its place.

Soak or dry

Most programs accept dry beans, and the makers say so, but soaked beans (8 hours, or overnight) grind finer, cook more evenly and yield more milk. Half a cup of dried beans to a litre of water is the usual ratio; the machines mark a fill line for beans and one for water.

The pulp

Soy pulp is okara: high in protein and fibre, used in Japanese and Chinese cooking in patties, stir-fries and baking. Fresh okara keeps two days in the fridge and freezes well.

Tofu, since you’re here

Hot soy milk plus a coagulant (nigari or gypsum, both sold as tofu coagulant) sets into curds in minutes; pressed in a mold, it is tofu. A 32 oz or 51 oz maker gives enough milk for a block, which is why the big soy makers are bought by people who never drink the milk at all.

The heated makers compared are on the heated page.